Views : 435,502
Genre: Education
Date of upload: May 30, 2023 ^^
Rating : 4.939 (119/7,679 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2024-05-18T02:03:07.461429Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
The blanked numbers at 3:50 are
NECK RADIUS
7.25"
9.5"-12"
15"-17"
RELIEF
.012” (0.3 mm)
.010” (0.25 mm)
.008” (0.2 mm)
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I bought a new fender strat in 1987 -- played in bands and clubs for a long time -- finally someone offered to set it up for me - in 2015! I had never had it set up - things were different back then if you did not know someone or no one told you (the shop I bought it at should have said something) you did not know.....I was amazed when the action was lowered how much better it played!
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I check set up every time I change strings (and check it again a couple of days later after playing on them) and every seasonal change and every time I take a guitar travelling with me when I get to a new location. I definitely agree with the order you recommend (relief, action, intonation). And good tip about keeping fender style saddles level - so many people think tilting the saddles is part of matching the fretboard radius, and that is just wrong. A titled saddle can rob you of tone, sustain, and tuning stability. I never bothered with feeler gauges for adjusting relief - I just hold a string down at the 1st fret and where the neck joins the body and tap at about the 7th fret to see how much movement there is. IMO there is no "right or wrong" - it depends on how hard you play, the string gauges you use and the type of music you play (a little fret buzz will never be noticed with high gain playing but might be bothersome for a rich clean tone). I adjust PU height for sound. Some folks might prefer balanced volume when changing from neck to bridge - some may prefer more output. As long as they are not too close to the strings, I feel it is a matter of taste and sound (for example, on strat style guitars I tend to keep the middle PU a lot lower - I just prefer the sound I get in positions 4 and 2 that way). I would suggest never to adjust the truss rod more than 1/4 turn without checking, and if it is not good enough after two adjustments, wait a day or two before going further. I agree completely that anyone serious about guitar should learn to do this. And I would add that, a lot of nubes seem to think getting a "pro set up" is good for life. Wrong. Guitars change. And setting up to "factory specs" is a compromise. Playable by anyone but optimal for no one. The only person who can dial in the perfect set up for your style, sound, and choice of string is you.
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It me right now having this issue and i feel like i need to do something new such a good set up after long times played..ive been searching for a weeks to select the best teacher tutorial at youtu..and today i just found my good teacher for what i need..thanks bro for sharing this even its just a basic lesson but its give me so so much satisfaction about how to set up the guitar..thank you agains.
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Best video on this that I've seen on YT out of quite a few. I've alway been too afraid to take this on but your explanations and the way you shot the video were excellent. I'm going get hold of a cheapo guitar to practice on! Big thank you for this - I feel veritably inspired to have a crack at this now. I've subscribed to your channel as it looks great. Cheers and good luck - PT x
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@ConorRocksYT
11 months ago
Here's everything I use in this video (affiliate link, not sponsored!): amzn.to/48e1Q6Q Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:29 How often to set up your guitar 00:59 Tools required 01:51 Step 1: Change your strings 02:33 Step 2: Neck relief 05:17 Step 3: String height 07:16 Step 4: Pickup height 08:45 Step 5: Intonation 10:41 Final thoughts Update I've misplaced the decimal point in the neck relief tables! They should read: 7.25": 0.012" 9.5" to 12": 0.010" 15" to 17": 0.008"
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