Views : 1,512,364
Genre: Science & Technology
Date of upload: Jun 5, 2023 ^^
Rating : 4.96 (624/62,284 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2024-05-16T14:34:13.244766Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
The dual complementary MOSFET driving the backlit is the part you needed to replace. It looks like a chip with either six or eight pins.
The designer make it working at 80 °C; if one places a 4 °C/W heatsink on it, it will no longer fail and the next piece in line to fail is the main rectifier capacitors.
Thanks for the video...
Anthony
189 |
Just some remarks:
- The small PCB is NOT the power supply for the LVDS board, but for the panel back light.
- Therefore the power supply is on the main board
- This monitor uses an external power brick, so the supply is not the mains, but about 19..24V.
- For the VESA mount to work correctly, you dont need to fix the metal box inside. The weight of the monitor is hold by the plastic housing. The box just behaves like captive nut.
- If you are not afraid to grab a soldering iron, I recommend to replace all biggest electrolitic capacitors on the main board. I have the suspition, that it will solve the problem for less than 10 CAD.
- I repared a lot of the early Samsung monitors that were prone to the dried out electrolitics. a set of those Elcos was about 6 EUR.
1K |
Something to keep in mind. Alot of newer monitors, lg, Asus, etc, the external power supply can actually go into a fault state when power spikes repeatedly. Example, a brownout, or sudden power loss. All that's needed is it to be completely unplugged on the AC side long enough to discharge the capacitors, and it'll exit the fault state and start right back up
207 |
With your platform it's an awesome move to push more "fix-it-yourself" content, build that sustainable mindset, and also one thing that I liked is the fact that you said that you can't break something that is already broken. My brother with that advice got me to fixing my own stuff, keep that content coming.
504 |
When you replaced the board for the first time, you may have accidentally shorted the circuit to the ground by placing it on the metal back side of the screen. This caused the power adapter to go into protection mode and disable the power output. Another thing to note is that the plastic case at the back is responsible for holding the metal case in place, which is why there are no screws.
44 |
When I did TV repair years ago, having different revisions of mainboards could cause issues. Could have garbled output, no output at all, OSD/menu would not work correctly or hardware differences in where headers were located, differences in pin counts or even the mainboard being matched with the panel. Worth making sure you get the same revision of the board you are trying to replace or at least verifying it will work as a direct replacement.
63 |
@LinusTechTips
11 months ago
Hey folks, if you're encountering a similar problem and your monitor has an external power brick, it may be worth replacing that first. These often fail before the monitor's internals, and are much simpler to replace. If you're having trouble finding an exact replacement, often you can get away with using one with EXACTLY the same voltage and the same or higher amperage. YMMV though; LMG isn't assumes no liability, this is not financial advice, etc :p
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