Welcoem to posts!!
in the future - u will be able to do some more stuff here,,,!! like pat catgirl- i mean um yeah... for now u can only see others's posts :c
Moin,
just a quick survey to better cater to your needs. Would you like to have...
Feel free to comment special requests. π
15 - 18
Moin! I'm currently working on a new video where I delve into the world of electroplating l-a-r-g-e-r objects.
One particular challenge I'm tackling is electroplating 3D-printed swords. These props require not only stability but also a smooth surface to ensure optimal adhesion and eliminate any unsightly seams. So I need to electroplate these in one Go.
Keep an eye out for further updates, and feel free to let me know what kind of objects you'd like to see electroplated. β€οΈ
#3DPrinted #Cosplay #propmaking #totk #zelda
73 - 25
Moin,
I'm currently working on these FDM #3dprinted #Pokemon PokΓ©balls. Besides, I'm always striving to improve and explore new paths. This time, my goal is to add some color to the dull "copper-silver-golden" plating. I'm curious to see what kind of impact it will have.
Currently in the final third of the production process, and then I'll start editing. This usually takes quite some time, so please bear with me. I'll do my best to make sure it turns out great. π
- Hendrik
128 - 21
Moin,
It's been a while since I've updated you all on what I've been up to, so I wanted to share my latest project with you. I'm currently working on a #StarWars lightsaber that is made up of about 20 individual pieces, all of which are #3Dprinted.
What's really cool about this lightsaber is that I'm taking the time to really make each piece stand out. Some parts are being nickel plated, some are being gold plated, and some are even black finished. I know a lot of you are big Star Wars fans, so I'm really excited to share this project with you.
Not sure what project I'll do next, but I think it's time for an updated in-depth "Electroplating/Electroforming 3D Prints Tutorial". I learned a lot since the last one and I want to share it with you π
105 - 6
Moin,
the next video will be a bit technical. I'm trying to do a sort of "casting" but without casting. For this, I'm using #electroplated #3dprints as molds. In general, I really enjoy trying out unconventional methods, so there will be occasional experimental content in the future. I hope you're doing well and have a great week!
81 - 13
At the moment I'm working on a prop created in FDM #3Dprinting. This requires a tremendous amount of post processing as I have to eliminate the layers to get a smooth copper finish.
It will also be my largest electroformed object to date. I will tell it in DIY style, but sheesh, this is quite elaborate for the hobby maker. If I'll ever escape sanding-hell this could be a very nice #electroplated prop. π
73 - 13
Moin, just a quick announcement: The next video shows how you can quickly and easily make the one ring. I was very surprised myself how fabulously perfect you can plate such "simple" objects. A little post processing and you have a perfect film prop in your hands.
15 - 5
Hi, if you are wondering why there are no new videos from me: at the moment i am working on *two projects* that take a lot of time.
The first one is a modded version of a fully automatic #3dprinted bead sorter by Linus Barth. I have rewritten the software for it and optimized many parts so that it sorts the beads autonomously and very quickly.
The second project is a method to electroform #3dprints as error free as possible. I am very curious to see if it will finally be possible to get no impurities on the print and to create a mirror-smooth surface without polishing. stay tuned :-)
5 - 4
Electroformed Clearance Castle by βͺ@MakersMuseβ¬. Any clearance left?
Yes, it looks awful. I electroformed 50Β΅m Copper on the whole castle but not the tube where the Maze Tower is inserted. Doesn't make sense? Right, but the tower itself in plated. This expands the Radius of my tower from 16mm to 16.1 mm. It fits right in the tube, but I can feel good friction on the gate.
Conclusion: Plating mechnical parts works (for me) when I half the plating thickness to 25Β΅m. This is about 4 hours leaving the prints in my galvanic bath. Note that I apply a very very thin layer of conductive paint.
12 - 5
_"My conductive paint is not conductive!"_
That's right. Many copper sprays or paint are not in the beginning. They need some stuff to _activate_ their conductivity. When you start plating, measure the painted parts and starting to wonder why your conductive paint is not conductive at all, you can make a little test. Put some acid on it. I put some technical hydrochloric acid (10%) on the right part of the print and et voila, this area became conductive right away. And this is what happens when you put your part into the plating bath.
Therefore your electrolyte has to be acidic and not alkaline. π
11 - 1
Moin, in this channel I present different ways how you can make crazy stuff with your 3D printers, 3D printing or other stuff. Often it is electroforming/electroplating, as how to deposit metal on prints. If you have any questions, feel free to comment, I will answer (almost) everything. π
These are some ingrediens I often use for electroplating:
Chemicals
π Bright Copper Electrolyte: amzn.to/3zk2S1F *
π Conductive Copper Paint amzn.to/47cpbpR *
π Palladium Electrolyte amzn.to/3DDr8hD *
π Gold Electrolyte (Pen) amzn.to/44NNwRp *
π Gold Electrolyte (Bath) amzn.to/3QJoInD *
π GRAPHITE Paint amzn.to/3YtPZhD *
π Galvanic Degreaser amzn.to/3rV4v5r *
π PEAK Tech 30A: amzn.to/3V5rdo7 *
(*) These links are affiliate links. I may receive a commision if you purchase them using the affiliate link. Puchasig from affiliate links is at no extra cost to you.
Impressum:
Hendrik Vogelpohl
c/o COCENTER
Koppoldstr. 1
86551 Aichach