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Jared Polin @UCZG-C5esGZyVfxO2qXa1Zmw@youtube.com

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Are you looking to take better photos? Are you not sure how


Welcoem to posts!!

in the future - u will be able to do some more stuff here,,,!! like pat catgirl- i mean um yeah... for now u can only see others's posts :c

Jared Polin
Posted 4 months ago

It's the FINAL COUNTDOWN!!!! The Kickstarter for Book 2 has less then 9 hours left (at the time of posting this). If you've been waiting to back it, now's the time to go for it. http://bit/frobook2

Not only will you get it at it's discounted price, you'll score a pack of 3 4x6 limited edition prints and get extra entires into the super huger mega camera giveaway for 2025

Did you Pre-Order???

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Jared Polin
Posted 4 months ago

What are we, what do we do and why do we do it? I’ve heard people say you need to figure out what your ā€œwhyā€ is. I guess it has to do with, if you know your ā€œwhyā€, then you at least of a target to aim for. It’s certainly not easy, in fact it can be complicated as you try to answer the question. In one way you want this, in another way you want that. And you find yourself lost or stuck trying to define your ā€œwhyā€, even though deep down inside you know exactly what it is…you’ve just never defined it.

I have a pretty good handle on who I am, what I do and sort of why I do it. I am me. I know that’s brief, but I am who I am. Now just because I know who I am, that doesn’t mean I want to stay the same person as I am today. I want to evolve, I want to learn, I want to grow, but I also don’t want to lose me, whatever me really means. ā€œI'd rather be a hypocrite than the same person forever.ā€ was said by Adam Horovitz of the Beastie Boys. How many people do you know who stay stuck because they refuse to change. We all change, we all evolve. Views we have today might not be the same views we have tomorrow. I think knowing that you can change and evolve is powerful. I know I don’t want to be the same person forever.

I grew up with a grandfather who said he ā€œwas too dumb to learnā€. Fuck That, is all I think when I hear that. I got in trouble my entire life for not giving into dumb statements like that just because he was my grandfather. I had family members defend that mentality and tell me to ā€œjust do it for himā€ he wont change. Fuck That I thought. It’s like dealing with a child, do you think a parent would let me get away with saying something like that and not even trying? I think that’s the part that upset me the most, the not trying.

All I ask is that you try, you take interest, you give it your best shot. You don’t wimp out with some lame line like ā€œI’m too dumb to learnā€. And you know what, all the people around him enabled this mentality. The truth is, he was no dummy, he was well liked, had a huge social circle of extremely successful people, but I always wonder if he held himself back and why he held himself back. I know he didn’t take a lot of risks in life. Maybe it’s because he was part of the ā€œGreat Generationā€ and they didn’t take as many risks. Or maybe it was just who he was, because plenty of his friends took big risks and reaped BIG rewards. I honestly have no idea why I went this direction, but I think it has to do something with me framing my ā€œwhyā€.

Dare I say my ā€œwhyā€ is rooted in selfishness? Well I said it and I know it’s true. I do look out for myself, and I am self aware most of the time. But don’t mistake that selfishness for a lack of caring for others. Part of my ā€œwhyā€ is rooted in helping and doing good for others. But I still want to look out for myself as well.

I think people are afraid to acknowledge their own selfishness. Society has trained people to ā€œsayā€ and ā€œdoā€ the perceived ā€œrightā€ things. Aka, don’t rock the boat, play the game, and it just is, what it is. I don’t buy it, and I don’t play that game. I don’t conform to the norms and don’t think people really should. I think people should not be afraid to speak their mind, but on the flip side, if you speak your mind, you need to be prepared for the counter argument. And when someone disagrees with you, you can’t cry foul, like someone’s attacking you, and ā€œit’s not fairā€.

Let me get back on track with what I do and why I do it. I am a creative, I’ve always been a creative, and I can’t image being anything else. I was about to say, I’ve been a creative since I was a little kid, but I think we all were in one way or another. Do some people lose that childhood creativity, and others somehow channel it differently? I don’t know, but I know, I am most happy when I am creating.

My creating centers around a few things. One is, making my brain feel good. And two, creating to elicit some sort of response and emotion in someone else. If I’m standing still, I feel like I’m stagnating and failing. When I’m moving and creating, I feel like a million bucks.
Why do I want to elicit a response in people? I think it has to do with helping people feel something. It could be seeing a photo of themselves they love. It could be learning from the educational content I put out. It could be a memory that’s triggered by something I say or do. My why is centered around making people feel something.

I’ve been lucky enough to figure out what it is I like to do and why. But I’m not satisfied and don’t think I ever will be. I don’t want to stagnate, I want to continue to evolve. I know what I love doing today, but I doin’t know where tomorrow will take me. I would like to think I am open to the direction it goes, but I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a little scared. But that’s life, if you never feel pain or joy, or even a healthy dose of fear…then what’s the point.

I’m far from perfect. I’m not even striving for perfect, as I see good enough, as being good enough. The what that triggered this brain dump was me thinking about my second photo book coming to life. As the kickstarter ends in roughly 30 hours, I’m thankful for everyone who backed it. I’m hopeful that it turns out the way I envision. And of course I’m a little scared. But most importantly, I’m proud and excited to see where the road goes.

Where we’re going, we don’t need roads.

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Jared Polin
Posted 4 months ago

You can pick one....are you going with the a1 II or the a9 III??? Why, let me know down below.

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Jared Polin
Posted 5 months ago

Are you going to go with Book 2 by itself? Or go with the Total Package? Pick yours up right here bit.ly/frobook2

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Jared Polin
Posted 5 months ago

ā€œWhere it all startedā€

The day was October 12th 2002 and the Counting Crows were in town. I had my first official photo pass to shoot a concert. I was using my Nikon F5, Nikon 80-200 2.8 and Fuji Press 800 Film.

I was told I had three songs and then had to get out of the pit. This was my first time hearing of such a thing and felt a little dejected. Little did I know, the first song would be Mrs. Potters Lullaby and would last over 7 minutes.

If I recall correctly, I fired off roughly 8-10 rolls of film while in the pit. Did I get a lot of keepers…nope. Did I know what I was doing, nope. Did I come out with at least one good image? I will say ā€œgood enoughā€ for my first time shooting a concert.

Looking at this image 22 years later, I still think it’s good enough. Is the composition perfect, nope, there’s too much headroom. The reason there’s too much headroom is we didn’t have 8 billion focus points like we have today. The F5 had 5, and they were clumped more in the middle and not so much out at the edges. I more than likely had the center focus point selected and was simply trying my best to get the lens to focus in a lower light situation.

In terms of was I shooting in manual, the answer would be no. I would have still be in aperture priority mode at this time because I was still afraid to trust myself, or simply didn’t know any better. Regardless, I can always look back at this image and know I got at least one ā€œgoodā€ shot at my first show.

This images appears in my NEW Hard Cover Photo Book titled ā€œBook 2, 22 Years Of Music Photographyā€ and is LIVE on Kickstarter as we speak. Book 2 is a HUGE, beautiful work of art. It measures 14x10.5 inches, which makes a two page spread 14x21 inches, includes 292 pages, with 180+ images, 8,000 words, audio commentary, weighs in at 8 Pounds and is printed in Italy. It truly is a work of art worthy of display.

For more information and to Pre-Order your copy, head on over to bit.ly/frobook2

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Jared Polin
Posted 5 months ago

Book 2 is LIVE!!! The Kickstarter for my second Photo Book chronicling ā€œ22 Years of Music Photographyā€ is now LIVE and ready to pre-order!!!

Book 2 is a work of art. It measures 14x10.5 in., has 292 pages with 180+ images, 8,000 words and weights in at 8 Pounds.

Head on over to bit.ly/frobook2 to watch the launch video and grab your copy of Book 2

All Book 2 Pre-Orders will come with 3 Random 4x6 Photographic Prints. Think of it like a pack of cards, you never know what you'll get. There will be limited edition 1 of 1's and even one "All Access Pass" aka "Golden Ticket" that will score you something special. If we hit our stretch goals, there will be more All Access Passes to find.

Thank you all for your continued support!!! I can't wait to get these books into your hands.

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Jared Polin
Posted 6 months ago

It’s currently 7:22 am and I’m already here at the studio getting the day started. Now I don’t say that to make it seem like I’m working harder than someone who’s not at work yet. I say it because it just so happens to be the time I got up based on having enough sleep and not having a workout this morning.

What I’ve been thinking about for the short time i’ve been awake, is my new method of teaching beginner photographers. Over the past little while I’ve been helping two of my friends go from never using a camera to starting to capture keeper images. So how are they picking it up so fast? It’s a combination of my new teaching method, cameras, lenses, fundamentals and having me to guide them, critique them and help them select and edit the keeper images.

So what’s this new method??? Not so fast, before I tell you the method, and yes, I’m going to give you the method in a second, I want you to remember, it all starts with the fundamentals. Anyone and I do mean anyone can pick this up and become a better photographer quicker than you believed you could. In fact, my original method 15 years ago was based off of people having DSLR’s and focusing on 3 shots or less. It focused on quickly explaining the exposure triangle and throwing you to the wolves. The good news is it did plant the seeds of the basics and has helped hundreds of thousands of photographers around the world. But times change. Now that we’re in the mirrorless world, I needed to grow and adapt the method and guess what, it’s never been easier to get started at the very least getting the proper exposure.

Are you ready for the method? Remember, this is for new people starting out or people who are having trouble and are not happy with their profession and work. The method focuses on a few basics ideas. The first, we’re jumping right to manual mode. That’s right, no more green auto, or shutter priority or aperture priority, good old M right off the bat. Second, which goes squarely against how you will shoot in the future, is, set the camera to auto ISO. (i’ll explain why in a minute) The third, shoot your lens wide open. That means if your lens is an F4, I want it set to F4 and left there. If it’s a variable aperture lenses, meaning the f stop changes as you zoom out, make sure it’s always set wide open. Fourth, with the shutter speed I only need you to think about two things, ā€œfast or slowā€.

Now it’s time for the breakdown. Why do I have you jumping right into manual mode and not full auto? Simple, with mirrorless camera, its never been easier to get the proper exposure because it’s literally right in front of your face. What that means is the electronic viewfinder where you look through the camera, shows you the representation of your exposure. If it’s too bright or too dark, you see it right there. But maybe that’s a little too complicated to start, but takes us right into Auto ISO…

Auto ISO is at the center of my new method. Remember, this is a starting point and in the future you’re going to feel confident enough in your skills to go full manual, but starting out, the best method at the beginning is auto ISO. So why the change in thinking from being Anti Auto ISO to using it at the front and center of my method. Simple, the quicker you start capturing keeper images, the more likely you will continue with photography and not quit. A little foreshadowing, it’s already been a huge success based off my my two friends first shoots on their own.

What exactly is auto iso doing? It’s making sure your exposure is in a place that’s going to be very close to correct. Now for those who don’t know, exposure is made up of three things. Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO, which is commonly called the Exposure Triangle. It’s all about cause and effect. If your shutter speed changes, then your exposure is changing. If your F stop changes, your exposure is changing as well…it’s all about cause and effect. If I do this, that’s going to happen. But for now, all you need to know, is Auto ISO is going to be the glue to keep your photos exposed properly.

Now that we’re set to Auto ISO, we’re going to set our lenses to the widest aperture. If it’s an F4, you put it at 4, if it’s a 2.8, you’re putting it at 2.8, if it’s a 1.4 or 1.8, you guessed it, you’re setting it to 1.4 or 1.8. The reason we’re locking this in is, it’s one less thing we need to worry about at the beginning. In the future, we’re going to take full control of our cameras, but for now, all I care about is making it as easy as possible to get properly exposed images. And this method is bearing fruits quicker than I expected.

For someone reading this who’s beyond the beginner point, I think you get why I’m starting here.
Last but not least, shutter speed. This is the only manual thing I am having you control and change. I want you to remember two things, fast or slow! Do we want a fast or slow shutter speed? To answer that question we need to look at the subject we’re shooting. Are they moving fast or slow? If it’s something that’s not moving at all, then a slow shutter speed is perfectly fine. Generally no less than 1/60th of a second will be fine. And yes, it can be even faster, but for now, you don’t need to worry about that. If it’s something moving, think fast shutter speed (1/500th of a second or more. The good news is, Auto ISO is going to compensate no matter which direction you take your shutter speed.

Like I said, I’m putting you in control of shutter speed and only shutter speed to start. So how will you know if your shutter speed is too fast or too slow? Well, if it’s too slow and you’re trying to capture a moving subject, you’ll see your subject have motion blur. That means they aren’t completely frozen. You’ll know your shutter speed is correct for a fast moving subject if they are frozen in your frame.

I want you to borrow a friend or family member and ask them to put their palms in front of their face. With their palms facing their face, have them windshield washer them back and forth at quick pace. First take a photo with your shutter speed at 1/15th of a second and see what happens. Then, raise it to 1/1000th of a second and take another. You’ll see the exact cause and effect I’m talking about. Oh, you can tell them to stop windshield washing their arms.

The slower the shutter speed, the more there’s potential for the subject blurring. The faster the shutter speed, the more you’re going to freeze your subject. All you need to ask yourself in every situation is fast or slow. Fast or slow, fast or slow, fast or slow. You’re in control of shutter speed and it’s either fast or slow.I know this is distilling it down to the most basic of fundamentals, but this is what works and is working for my two friends I’m mentoring. It’s obviously going to be better to show you vs tell you, but for now, this works.

I’m going to stop there for now, this is just the start of the method and the idea. I need to break into auto focus and a few other thoughts, but for now, I’m going to move on to something else today.
I simply felt like sharing the fact that this method is yielding results quicker than expected. The results my friends are getting right off the bat, proves to me I’m on the right path in my thinking.

This right here is the framework for teaching photography for the foreseeable future. Thank you for giving it a read. There’s plenty more to come, this is just the start.

Jared Polin aka the FRO

p.s. If you got this far, thank you, I hope it helped you out. If you like my teaching methods and would like to learn from me in person. There are 7 spots left for the Saturday, November 16th Bootcamp here in Philly. For more information, or to lock in your spot before they're gone, click here froknowsphoto.sellfy.store/p/november16thbookcamp/

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Jared Polin
Posted 7 months ago

Which lens would you go with and why??? Let me know, down below.

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Jared Polin
Posted 7 months ago

am working my way though using the @canonusa R5 Mark II (R5 from here on out) in the Real World. I’ve shot Baseball a few times during the day, but not a night game just yet where I push the ISO. I shot some MLS soccer, and yesterday I shot field hockey.

There’s so much to play with in this camera. And yes, most of what I’ve been shooting has been action sports, but Stephen has also used it to photograph portraits of his 1 year old. Canon has never had a more versatile camera in my opinion than the R5. I don’t think the industry has really seen a camera like this. Yes, the Sony a7R V is a fantastic camera, with a beautiful sensor, but it’s slow in terms of shooting speed. And yes, I get it, it’s not all about shooting speed and auto focus…but why can’t you have it all…and it seems as if the R5 as of now, has it all.

No Camera is Perfect, the R5 isn’t perfect, there’s always quirks and compromises made, but so far, it’s solid. For example, the R5’s auto focus is superior to that of the R3 which held the crown for best auto focus in the industry…until now. The R5 shoots at 30 FPS just like the R3, but offers Pre-Shooting. Remember, the R5 is almost double the resolution and can shoot at the same speed. That’s kind of insane. The un-known right now for me is High ISO, R5 vs R3, which I should test at a Phillies Night Game. Same lens, same settings, different cameras.

In terms of the body, I still prefer a Pro body with built in grip, over a non pro body of the R5, even when you add a grip. But all and all, there’s nothing in the industry that touches it right now. You can say Z8/Z9 all you want…but there’s no question in my mind, the R5 is a hell of a lot more well rounded and feature packed.

Field Hockey photos taken at 1/4000th of a Second at F2.8 at the correct ISO with a 400 2.8 IS III adapted with an EF to RF adapter. (ISO’s ranged from 250-500 on an overcast day)

3429 RAW Files = 177 Gigs (Thanks Pre-Shooting)
#FroKnowsPhoto #Photography #CanonR5MarkII #Canon #Photography

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Jared Polin
Posted 9 months ago

ā€œOhtaniā€

Every since the Phillies 2024 schedule came out, my eyes been set on the three game series with the Ohtani and the Dodgers.

Now if you’re new here, welcome, let me take a quick second to explain what I’m shooting with this year. I am using an 80 year old Speed Graphic 4x5 Camera with a WWII aerial reconnaissance Aero Ektar 178mm f2.5 Lens. What you have to remember, is everything about this camera is manual. You have to wind the shutter to the speed you want, set the aperture and manually focus on the ground glass of the camera, aka the back of the camera. I should also mention, the images are upside-down on the back, which means if I want to move my frame left, I have to move it right. I also need to use a light meter on my phone to get the proper exposure.

With Ohtani coming to town, there’s usually 15-20 extra photographers at the game. You have to have a plan of attack. Knowing Ohtani will be leading off and the DH, I knew I would have a few extra minutes right before the first pitch to try and get a shot of him getting ready to bat.

Using a 4x5 in a world where 30 frames per second, with eye af is the norm is not easy. I pre gauged my light, I knew I was using 100 speed film, set the lens right under F4 (f4 on 4x5 is like f1.2 depth wise on 35mm) and I knew I’d need to crank the shutter 4 times to get to 1/500th. But don’t forget, I need to compose and focus quickly, if my subject moves forward or backward at all, I have to start all over again. So you have to hope once you lock in for a shot, the subject doesn’t move. You press the shutter, and you hope for the best.

This is one of 5 shots I took in a span of 3 minutes. I went 5/5 with focus somehow, and 4/5 with usable frames. This look back frame isolating Ohtani, is one of the keepers. I will be sharing a reel of Japanese TV capturing me capturing these pictures soon, so you can see part of the process. I wish I could have been slightly tighter, but there’s limitations abound.

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