Welcoem to posts!!
in the future - u will be able to do some more stuff here,,,!! like pat catgirl- i mean um yeah... for now u can only see others's posts :c
Today i bring you a photo of my very first tool build and the very first project i made doing 'fine woodworking'. If you browse through photos 1 to 3 you can see how rough this mallet is with heaps of blowout, its just down right rough. I made this with an old blunt chisel (I didn't know any better at the time), eggbeater drill with some standard cheap drill bits and an old spear and Jackson handsaw (also blunt).
I believe that anyone can do better than my first attempt, if i can make this ugly duckling that still functions anyone can make one. I believe that a mallet is a great first project and as you can see its hard to make one that doesn't still work to hit things! Also check out the last photo to see the difference between my first mallet and one i made a video on YouTube a few year ago.
I hope this can inspire any one looking to get into woodworking and thinking they aren't good enough. Just start and i promise you will get better the more your learn and practice.
25 - 6
Hello Everyone,
Just wanted to announce I have finally got YouTube Channel Membership setup and operating. You get all the same offerings as your do on Patreon right here on YouTube. To find out more make sure to click the join button just next to the Aussie Woodshed Logo below the any video or on the Channel Page.
Have a great day!!
8 - 0
What i have for you today is a restored Record No. 5 1/2 SS hand plane (p2) dated to between 1931 - 1939 (p1), parts of this plane were discontinued during WW2 making it easier to determine its age. What makes this hand plane different from most is the SS in its name, which stands for Stay-Set cap iron (p5) .
Who invented the SS system?
The Stay-Set system was the invented by C. & J. Hampton who received their pattern in 1931. The SS cap iron was implemented on some record hand planes from 1931 - 47 with the pattern number 362743 (p3), and continued use into the 1960's without this number.
What is the SS system?
The whole idea of the SS system was to speed up the sharpening process by not having to completely remove the cap iron. The low portion of the cap iron was removable (p4) to allow the removal of the burr on the back of the blade when sharpening. The lower portion of the cap iron fitted into a groove with a locator nib to ensure it was always located in correct alignment with the upper portion of the cap iron.
Does it work in my opinion?
Being able to remove the lower portion of the cap iron does indeed work for speeding up the sharpening process although not by much, and cannot be used with a honing guide which weren't used much when it was produced.
The major problem i encountered
It is very difficult to prevent shaving being jammed between the cap iron and the back of the blade. This is because the usual cam action that prevents gaps between the blade and the cap iron when the cap iron is one piece does not exist using a Stay-Set cap iron, it sits on top and kind of 'floats' there, this also making initial setup very difficult also.
The solution
The only way i could find to prevent the shaving jamming is to tighten up the lever cap screw much tighter than i would like to apply much more pressure of the bottom of the cap iron to make a solid connection. This adds additional problems for the hand plane user to operate blade adjustment with ease, it does still perform properly in this state it just require more force to operate this blade assembly especially adjusting the depth of cut.
19 - 4
Today i want to show you this 2 speed breast drill by IXION from Germany circa 1940's [i think](p1). The riveted label on my drill is completely blank and there are no other dates or markings on this drill, however i determined it was an IXION drill from photo's that looked identical to this one online. It is called a 'breast' drill because of the rod that comes out of the top of the main drill assembly with a pad on the top, is designed to be pressed against your chest for stability and pressure. This is also where i added a modification to this drill by adding the wooden pad to the top of it making it more comfortable to use (p5)
How does it work?
1) The central assembly of this drill has a series or gears inside which is operated by turning the bolt with the square shank on it, one of each side of the drill with its 2 gearing ratios, 2:1 for low speed and 7:1 for high speed. (p2,3)
2) The handle in photo 2 has a square opening that fits on the square bold shank mentioned above, and is secured in place by an knurled nut, to adjust the speed simply move the handle to the other side of the drill and secure, below this you can also see a support handle that is screwed in and easily moves to the opposite side to the handle.
3) This drill contains a 3 jaw tool less chuck used to secure round shank drill bits.
I have used the drill in a number of my videos and it works very smoothly and works surprising well with little effort to operate even in hardwoods.
18 - 3
Today i bring the Stanley no 42 pistol grip saw set (p3). This saw set has the following pattern date '9-26 & 12-19-16' (p2) meaning 26 Sept & 19 Dec, 1916, I believe the first date being the original Pattern when production first began and the later being when this one was manufactured. This saw set is called a pistol saw set as its in the shape of a pistol handle.
How does this saw set work?
1) There are 2 main parts required for a saw set to operate a hammer and an anvil. If you look inside the oval shape on the left is the hammer with the narrow tip and or the right is the anvil. (p5)
2) The anvil can be adjusted up or down to make the set less or more aggressive. There is a main lock screw to hold the anvil in place and a lower screw with a spring to raise or lower the said anvil, the spring is to keep pressure on the screw to remove slop (p4).
3) Why does adjusting the anvil my the saw set more or less aggressive? The front of the hammer is set at an angle and the top of the anvil is also set to the same angle. Moving the hammer up means less contact with the saw plate from the hammer and in turn less 'set' is applied, moving it down the opposite applies. (p2 look at the face of anvil in the middle & p4 anvil and part of the hammer can be seen in the middle)
4) Carefully rest the saw set on the saw plate until it rests in the square cut out on the oval housing (p4), hold the wide flat rest against the saw plate (p4 opposite the anvil screws)
5) Pull the trigger firmly pushing the hammer towards the saw plate until the saw tooth bends and rests against the anvil, then rinse and repeat until the saw it fully set alternating sides (p1)
This is a very simple tool but is also a very forgotten tool, which has a vital role in allowing a hand saw to work, without it saw can still be set but its a harder less precise job.
20 - 2
What i have here today is No. 21 hand crank post drill press by The Silver MFG Co. Salem Ohio USA [p1,2]. During my research i found a 1911 catalog with it present, so in know it was manufactured around 1911 however i could not find an exact Manufacturing date. ( if anyone has more information i would appreciate you leaving it in the comments) The No. 21 is stated as a Hand or Self feed, Two Speed drill press.
How does the drill press and self feed work?
1- [P5] On the left side you can clearly see an arm, this arm allow the self feed system to function by moving left and right or in and out
2- [P4] You can clearly see a folding piece that is engaged with the top wheel this advances the drill press when in operation by turning this wheel.
3- [P3] On the inside of the cog wheel on the right is a 'wavy' circle that pushing the bottom of the Arm previously mention (If you look closely you can see the bottom of this curved arm making contact with the cog) as this cog turns this 'wavy' circle pushes the arm out based on the width of this circle (or how far out from the cog is protrudes). A spring attached to the mid way point of this arm also allows for this arm to move back again [p5].
4- [P2] The cog on the right has the crank handle attached to it which drives the small cog, which turns spins the large cog (on the left). This cog moves the cog at the bottom in [P3] which turns the shaft to spin the drill chuck and also moves the advancing arm mechanism. The butterfly screw [P2] here adjusts how far the advancing arm moves and in turn controls how fast the drill press advances.
5- [P5] To ensure the bottom cog attached to the 'drive shaft' doesn't turn the advancing wheel at the top a ball bearing is system is used, this allowing independent movement of the 2 separate shaft sections but can still push it to advance.
6 - [P1] You can see there is a fly wheel to maintain momentum in use and that i added a modern chuck to make it easier to use.
29 - 9
What I have for you this time is a Stanley 12 ½ scraper plane, sometimes refer to as a veneer plane (P1,2). You can clearly see in Photo 2 on the brass locking knob ‘STANLEY RULE & LEVEL CO. NEW BRITAIN.CONN.USA’ so this scraper plane was manufactured by Stanley in Connecticut USA, and has traveled a long way to end up in my workshop in Australia.
The Stanley 12 ½ scraper plane was manufacturer between 1905-1943, this particular one was manufactured between 1905 – 1924 when the scraper blade width change to 2 7/8" wide (1925 onward) instead of the original 3" wide which this plane has.
SO HOW DOES THIS PLANE WORK?
The scraper of the #12 ½ is clamped into the head of this plane (p5,3) and locked in place by the brass lock knob (p2). The #12 ½ is known as an adjustable scraper plane, meaning the head the holds the scraper can be adjusted from roughly 45 degrees to 95 degrees. It operates by being pushed toward the head of the plane, ensuring the flat side of the scraper faces this direction also. (read last paragraph find out more).
HOW DO YOU ADJUST THE PLANE?
If you direct your attention to photo 3 you can clearly see a threaded rod attached to the head of the scraper plane which passes though part of the body casting where 2 brass knobs are present. Tightening and loosening these knobs allows the adjustment of the scraper angle and also to lock the head in place so it can’t move during use. These knobs also function to micro adjust the angle and in doing so can adjust the depth of cut to some degree.
MORE IMPORTANT FACTS
The #12 ½ has a rosewood handle (p3,5) just like all the #12 range of scraper planes, but is different to the #12 as it has a rosewood sole (p4) which is less likely to mar or scratch the surface its used on.
The scraper in this plane is thicker than most scrapers to prevent the scraper flexing too much while in use. This makes it more difficult to turn a usable burr, so both ends of this scraper have a 30 degree bevel on the back of them giving a much finer edge to turn a burr (p3) [ALWAYS TURN THE BURR TO THE FLAT SIDE].
15 - 2
The hand plane i have for you today is a specialist plane a Stanley No. 113 Compass (or Circular) Plane (p1) with a Pattern date of 'JUNE.17.79' meaning 17th June 1879 (P4). The plane i have here is a type 4 but it predates the scale added near the interlocking gear arms (p4) on the 4a model in 1903, meaning this plane was made some time between 1900 and 1903 making it roughly 120 years old. If you direct your attention to photo's 2 & 3 you can see the plane number (P2) and see this plane is indeed made by the Stanley Rule & Level Company on the knob.
This plane is unique in its operation in that it have a thin metal sole dovetailed to the cast iron body (p4). The sole of this plane was design this way so the plane could curve its sole to create both a convex (p1) or concave (P5) shape.
So how does this plane achieve this? It have an ingenious design to allow this operational function. One simply need to turn the knob on the top in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction to curve the sole.
Want to dive a little deeper into this operation? Turning the knob in either direction moves the front arm (p4) up or down flexing the front section of the sole.
How does the back of the sole move? 2 gear arms are utilized to move the back arm (p4). When the front arm is moved it moves the front gear arm which in turn moves the back gear arm which moves the back arm flexing the back section of the sole.
Due to the gearing arms used both the front and the rear section of the sole are flexed at the same time make a uniform curve when the knob is turned.
The great thing about a plane such is this is it retains the bailey style frog adjustments (depth adjustment screw, lateral adjuster, blade assembly and leaver cap) meaning other than the adjustments made to the sole this plane operates just like any other metal bodied bench plane, but allows for the planing of curved shapes and surfaces.
12 - 0
Today i have a European style horned hand plane from Germany made by ESSLINGER & ABT (P1, 2) the same logo is also seen on the blade (sorry don't have a photo). If you direct your attention to photo 2 you can see the markers mark which has some words in German that i have translated for you. 'Seit 1845' meaning since 1845 which i assume is the first year ESSLINGER & ABT started making hand planes. 'qualitats werkzeug' meaning Quality Tool, my guess this is some sort of tool guarantee which is common on a lot of older hand tools. 'Schutz Marke' are 2 separate word 'Schutz' meaning Protection and 'Marke' meaning Brand or Make , so Protection Brand. FAMOS among other brands fall under the ESSLINGER & ABT banner.
I could not find any other dates other than 1845 on this hand plane so i have no way of knowing the actual age of this particular plane (If anyone has any ideas it would be great if you could leave it in the comments).
The number 48 is stamped into the back of this plane (P3). From my research this appears to be 48mm referring the width of the blade, which indeed the blade is exactly 48mm wide which is not far off 2" wide blade. You can also see (P3) a metal button present, this is a strike button to allow the use of a metal hammer to adjust this plane without damaging the timber.
The chip breaker present on this hand plane is a bit shorter than those usually seen on British or US hand planes (P4), but performs the same function perfectly. I now direct your attention to the last photo (P5) where you can clearly see how large the mouth is on this particular plane. I am unsure if this plane was made as a rough removal plane or the sole has worn down so far over time requiring a resoling to operate as a smoothing plane. I believe that this plane could have been used as either, it could have started life as a smoothing plane and over time as the mouth became wider and was used for rough remove there after.
16 - 9
I'm Luke a self taught hand-tool woodworker with a passion for building with my hands and want to share this with you. Here you will see you will see a lot of beginner how to content covering the basics of hand tool woodworking from hand planes to handsaws and a sprinkle of specialty tools. I also cover other topics such as restorations, reviews and project builds big and small. If you like what you see and enjoy my content and decide to stick around i will show you how to go from a total beginner to a proficient hand-tool woodworker.
This channel is for you the viewer, and should be regarded as an educational resource on help you on your hand-tool woodworking journey
Although i am primarily a hand tool woodworker i still use select power tools to speed up certain processes such as regrinding bevels, re-sawing, wood-turning and driving screws on occasion.
Any questions please don't hesitate to Email me. My address: aussiewoodshed@gmail.com
Thank you
Please enjoy your stay.