https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1jy4O-eVIg
Fancy jigs and fixtures are all good and well. But what about those moments you just need to get the bloody job done? This technique is for those moments. An

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/adjustable-router-stop-block/
A recent project was a bed headboard. Instead of laying out the mortises and trying to eyeball where to stop routing, I decided to make a few stops that I could use with my router. You can see the stops in the photo above. Simple, but works. The construction of the stop blocks is easy. The stops are an easy build from plywood.

https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/quick-easy-mortises/
a very effective, simple and low cost way to make mortises with a router is to use Tage Frid's mortising box. it solves the balance problem as well as providing a way to use stops to determine length of mortise. easily made from shop scraps. Highland Hardware shows how to make the box. do a search on: Tage Frid mortising jig.

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/stops-for-making-mortises/
The drawing you see here shows you how to set up and use the stops. Start by placing the board against the right bracket, push it into the 1/2" straight bit until it contacts the fence, then slide the workpiece toward the left stop. Pull the workpiece away from the fence and remove any waste by carefully routing back and forth.

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/cutting-a-perfect-mortise/
My "blended" technique for cutting mortises involves a common, three-step routine. First, I lay out the mortise at the bench. Next, I take the part to the drill press to drill out the bulk of the waste. Finally, it's back to the bench to square and clean up the mortise. The trick to making the process flow smoothly and produce a top-notch

https://www.woodpeck.com/mortising-jig.html
Woodpeckers new Mortising Jig uses your plunge router and a straight router bit to cut mortises from 1/8" to 1/2" thick and up to 3-1/2" wide. Imagine cutting a perfectly sized mortise in just a few seconds. Just set the fence and stops to the layout on your board and use the template to guide your router.

https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/28866-making-repetitive-mortises/
If I'm making multiple mortises in this more traditional style, I prefer to use a router with dual edge guides and stop blocks so that I can easily repeat the process on each part. Another easy way to do it is to create a template with center lines and clamp it to the work piece. From there, just a router bit and bushing to follow the template.

https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/working-with-loose-tenons-router-table/
For even more visibility, you can continue the stop/start lines on the fence. Mortises are deep cuts — this one is 1″ deep — so cut in multiple shallow passes of increasing depth. With the router on and the workpiece against the fence, lower it carefully onto the bit on the start mark, then push it smoothly along the fence to the stop mark.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2018/04/02/mortising-ends-long-boards
Well, after making the first mortise with this rig I was kicking myself. Using Jeff Miller's article, Add Bushings to Your Router Kit, as reference, the jig couldn't have taken more than 20 minutes to build, and it allowed me to easily make mortises in the end of a long board accurately and consistently. In this video, I show you how simple

https://thecraftsmanblog.com/the-easy-way-to-make-mortises/
1/2″ + 1/2″ + 1/2″ = 1 1/2″ so your mortise should be 1/2″ wide. Once you've determined the width of your mortise, choose the corresponding chisel. Most bench mortisers come with a 4-piece set of chisels (1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, 1/2″). You can make pretty much any size mortise with some combination of these chisels.

https://www.instructables.com/Mortises-Made-Easy/
Step 2: Chop Chop. Since the mortise here is 3/4" wide, I take my 3/4" chisel and start chopping away. In my very first chop (pic #1), notice the position of the chisel. The bevel is pointing towards the inside, and the blade is set in from the edge of the mortise. You can define the top and bottom of the mortise later.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/shop-tips/a-speedy-way-to-rout-multiple-mortises-0
Glue and nail together two jigs as shown in Step 1. Make them about 4'' longer than your router base plus the length of the mortise. Turn the jigs so the stops face in opposite directions, and loosely position them in a bench vise or Workmate. Slide the board to be mortised between the jigs, with the centerline of the mortise as shown in Step 2.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/07/01/mortisers-for-all-budgets
Mortisers for All Budgets. If you can cut mortises quickly, furniture making is faster and more fun. By Tim Albers #206-July/Aug 2009 Issue. Synopsis: Found in almost every pro shop, the mortising machine is also a great time-saver for hobbyist woodworkers. Tim Albers tried out several different types to see which ones deliver on the promise

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/easiest-way-to-make-a-mortise.232781/
This easier than adjusting the cutter depth. Two stops are used, first is the start of the mortise. Then this stop is hinged and flipped up out of the way. Then the second stop completes the length . When a mortise is in the middle of the stock the stops are not used. Pencil lines and freehand will be good enough.

https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/router-jig-for-loose-tenon-mortise
The slot is 5/8 wide and fits a standard P/C bushing. The length is whatever you want the width of the mortise to be. The scrap of plywood with four holes is 7/32 thickness, which is ½ of the difference between 4/4 and 5/4 stock. That way, the jigs can be converted for either stock by simply adding the shim.

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/simple-mortising-jig/
To get started, you'll need the jig in place and a bit installed in the router. I prefer a spiral upcut bit when it comes to mortising. Once the mortise is laid out, clamp the workpiece down so that the jig can slide freely along it without obstruction. ADJUST THE JIG. The next step is setting up the jig using the layout lines on the workpiece.

https://www.instructables.com/HOW-TO-CREATE-a-MORTISE/
Step 1: The simplest way is to invest in a mortising machine, with a auger bit nestled inside of a square chisel it makes quick work of creating mortises. But this can be a pricey way to go and unless your a serious woodworker you might not be able to justify the price of even an entry level machine. That being the case let me share three ways

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/1ci2q95/can_i_use_a_screwdriver_to_make_mortises/
Can I use a screwdriver to make mortises. Okay, I didn't think you would engage with a regular chisel inquiry. I have $150 dollars to spend and would like to get a 1/2 inch and 1 inch chisel. I'm willing to spend a little more, but only for good reason. I'm practicing mortise and tenon joints for a week now and my Lowe's chisels have me

https://www.theshavingwoodworkshop.com/mortises.html
That being the case let me share three ways I commonly use to create a mortise. 1 - THE ROUTER TABLE. The router table is a great way to create mortises that just requires a little bit of set up. First I draw out my mortise in the location I want it on my piece of stock making sure the that lines that represent the ends of the mortise I also

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/perfect-fitting-hinge-mortises/
When routing the mortises this way, you'll cut them to match half the thickness of the hinge barrel. The first step in the process of making the hinge mortise is to mark the location of one end of the hinge mortise. Now, clamp one part of the jig so the inside edge is right on this line. (I clamp the "tail" end first so the clamp won't

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?287638-Mortising-machine-clean-mortises
If your chisel is burning, stop and change whatever is making it burn, re-sharpen, and continue. I pre-drill 1/4" mortises with a 3/16" dill on a drill press. All it takes is a few holes, and there is better chip clearance and cooling. Pre-drilled mortises go so much faster and better that the time spent pre-drilling is worth it.

https://www.woodsmith.com/article/cut-a-mortise-on-the-table-saw/
To create the mortise, you make the leg out of two separate pieces. Then, instead of making the mortise after the leg is glued up, you cut dadoes on the inside face of both halves of the leg first (detail 'a'). This way, you end up with perfectly sized mortises once the two parts are glued together. And by carefully selecting the two parts