Views : 705,731
Genre: Autos & Vehicles
Date of upload: Premiered Nov 25, 2023 ^^
Rating : 4.576 (1,747/14,752 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2024-05-15T22:29:55.791564Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
Great video and a load of testing you did. Thanks! For me as a mechanic, I did a simple test years ago for my own proof. I dropped my engine pan (300,000km Escape), inspected and took pics of the bottom of crank area. Then did an oil change and ran SeaFoam for a few hundred km’s. Dropped the pan again and inspected. Sure enough the bottom of the engine was significantly cleaner. Rather than a brownish stain on all engine parts they looked like new and shiny. I was surprised to be honest as I always run Mobil1 full synthetic or Pennzoil full synthetic the vehicle’s entire life and never do extended changes. I thought the detergents in the oil would have kept it 100% clean but that wasn’t the case. As such, I run SeaFoam through all my engines once every year or two to keep those rings from ever sticking. Never had an engine burn oil since doing this in 15+ years now! :)
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Bought a used Scion with 180k, changed oil several times within a month and used a flush product each time and had the same results you got. My mechanic friend dropped the pan which had a coating of nasty oil on it, so each flush was just cleaning the pan each time. We cleaned the pan till shinny, now each oil change shows the real changes with flush and they do work, Love your 30mm pointer tool and every garage should have a reloader as just another tool.
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So as mentioned towards the end the oil is supposed to hold contaminates in suspension, meaning it is dark & opaque - looks bad but is doing it’s job. I think the unknown factor is the condition of the piston rings and the amount of combustion blow-by. I have seen old aircraft engines (used for training in school) which were pretty worn out - disassembled, cleaned, reassembled - they turn the oil black in 10 minutes, they were thoroughly cleaned and new oil used. It was the combustion products getting past the worn rings.
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Great video … I personally have used Rotella, Delo or Valvoline Blue for my diesels. As for my gasoline vehicles I have always used Valvoline, Castrol or Chevron oil. I don’t mix my oils; I pick my weight and brand and stick with it, changing/ servicing a little sooner then recommended. Filters were PUROLATOR, WIX, NAPA OR BOSCH for gas, and factory Cummins or Motorcraft for diesel….. Never had an oil or filter failure in 35 years… It’s all about how well you maintain your engine. I like my granddaddy said good oil and filter is cheap insurance!!!
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I have not directly run controlled testing on engine flush products like this, and I think this was a great test. Thanks for publishing your work! My perspective based on my experience as an auto mechanic and an engineer working in gasoline engine R&D is that engine flush products have a very narrow application. "Conventional" (distilled petroleum) oils contain paraffins and other long chain hydrocarbons which tend to fall out of suspension as waxy deposits on surfaces. When these wax-coated surfaces get hot enough, the solid deposits tend to oxidize into "varnishes". Detergents help, shorter oil change intervals help, and good operating conditions (avoiding short trips, not overheating, not running the engine under high load and then shutting off immediately) help. But when lubricating an engine with dinosaur juice, at least some amount of waxy deposits and varnish are probably inevitable. Synthetic oils contain little to none of these components and are much more resistant to oxidation, so they're far less prone to leaving deposits. Synthetic oils are also far better solvents, so they do a better job of dissolving deposits and "self-flushing". However, if you have an engine that has been run for a lot of hard miles on conventional oil and is fully of wax and varnish, and you want to switch to synthetic oil, I see two concerns. First, simply draining the dino oil and refilling with synthetic may lead to a lot of deposits dissolving or breaking free and circulating through the engine until the next oil change. Not good. Second, if you really want to clean all the deposits out, the synthetic oil alone may not do the whole job. Engine flush products are basically just strong organic solvents so they are likely to dissolve more wax and varnish than the synthetic oil ever would. So I recommend using oil flush products specifically when switching from conventional to synthetic oil. However, I don't see carbon suspended in the oil (which causes most of that color change) to be related to engine flush products in any way. That comes from combustion blowby and does not stick to surfaces in the crankcase. It's always there when you run the engine and it floats around in the oil no matter what oil you use. It comes out with the oil whether you use the flush or not. You often have to do multiple oil changes (flush or not) to get clear oil because opening the drain and changing the filter never really removes 100% of the oil, and mixing a small amount of sooty oil in a lot of fresh oil is enough to change the color a lot.
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@cesarpalmos8235
5 months ago
I work as a fleet technician for class 8 trucks. We never judge oil by its color (in normal operating use). No matter how new the engine oil is, it will always look black due to the diesel soot. I can replace 42 quarts, literally only crank the engine, and it'll be black. That said, we also do oil samples and send them to Chevron for preventative maintenance testing through their LubeWatch Fluid Analysis Program. The trucks with Sea foam always come back with less contaminates, carbon deposits, copper and phosphorus. I've torn down engines at a million miles that used seafoam BEFORE every oil change and the internal components look brand new. A comparable engine without using seafoam will look significantly worn with excessive carbon deposits. That said, most people who want to use these products are generally the kind of people who actually care for their equipment. They often perform all maintenance as recommended by the manufacturer and usually drive their vehicles with mechanical sympathy. I would highly recommend sending those oil samples to an analysist for a final conclusion, however, I understand the cost and time lost in doing so. I am also curious if the Liqui Moly cleaned most of the carbon buildup before the seafoam did. I personally use seafoam on all my vehicles before every other oil change. I do in fact notice better idling and power restored after every treatment on my smaller engines. The only difference felt on my larger engines is fuel economy.
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