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1,145,397 Views β’ Aug 14, 2021 β’ Click to toggle off description
NylonX filament: www.matterhackers.com/store/l/nylonx-carbon-fiber-β¦
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Genuine E3D Hardened Steel Nozzle (Amazon*): amzn.to/3iIP3lT
125ml Wash Bottle (Amazon*): amzn.to/3iJQOiU
Kimtech no-lint Kimwipes (Amazon*): amzn.to/3ADPRPe
BuildTak 3D Print Removal Spatula (Amazon*): amzn.to/3iKmhBx
Noga Deburring Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2xMfiPz
Bondhus Metric Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3eqZzwb
Bondhus SAE Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3h9bJLZ
Wilton 6-1/2" Tradesman Vise (Amazon*): amzn.to/33fqPXz
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Fuzzball Parade Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Views : 1,145,397
Genre: Education
Date of upload: Aug 14, 2021 ^^
Rating : 4.865 (617/17,718 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2022-04-09T17:41:56.750539Z
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YouTube Comments - 1,308 Comments
Top Comments of this video!! :3
For about five years now I've been using 3d printed parts in all sorts of machines -- cnc routers, other 3d printers, cnc plasma etc. As I look at this video I can't help but make a couple suggestions going forward. First, use the capabilities of 3d sculpting that 3d printing allows, adding ribs, bosses and other complex strengthening details. If you run the math, it becomes clear that these can dramatically improve the stiffness and stability of this kind of bracket for about no cost. Second, I always use embedded nuts, never rely on threads in the plastic. They're easy to incorporate and allow for full and repeated tightening without difficulty. My 2c.
590 |
Those 3d printed barbell weights look really realistic π
45 |
I've found using multiple walls (3 or four of them) massively increases rigidity and actually prints very fast. Also... adding holes. Yes: adding holes. The holes end up having the same 3/4 walls and add way more strength and rigidity than infill, while also printing very quickly.
127 |
I've been doing this professionally for 11 years. You should never remove a part from your print bed by pushing a scraper towards your other hand trying to support it. Just remove the bed from the printer. Put it into a corner of a worktable with an high edge, or your kitchen counter and let the corner support the back edge of the print bed, and push the scraper forward, and away from yourself using both hands. You can get way more leverage and it's super safe. This is the safest way to do it. I've seen people wreck them selves bad and hit major arteries and have to go to the hospital doing what I saw you do in the video. Because sometimes the the parts pop off quick and this unexpected quick movement is what gets ya. Just looking out for you sir! Good Luck on all you do! Cheers
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I think this is one of bests free videos from the makers I've seen. Really happy to watch professional and complete content (with aftermath, fully covered, no steps or info skipped, all seems thought of well, nothing left aside). Excellent for finding time for deadlifts! Good luck!
10 |
Very nice analysis, specially at the end, you even took the time to do a long term test, which is truly impressive, and you documented all the little issues and details that pop up during the design, printing and post-processing process, so yeah, Iβm very pleased with this video and all the stuff I learned from it, great job, and thanks a lot for sharing all this info and hard work with us!!!
20 |
I have never ever had a single problem 3D printing, anything! Nothing ever shrank, got stuck to the bed, left a poor surface finish! I think that is directly related to the fact that I don't have a 3D printer. If I did, I'm sure I would have every possible problem there is, and even some that are impossible!
Great Channel, I'm glad I found it, can't wait to see all your videos!!
9 |
I really appreciate how you talked through the entire process. Solid video.
6 |
DFM my friend!
You're taking a part designed in 6061 and turning it into a CF print. A little tweaking of material here and there will solve the rigidity issue, but going 1:1 on converting a part material/method rarely ever works.
38 |
I don't have a 3D printer, or any practical use for this knowledge, at least at this time, but I found myself watching this in its entirety. I think you did a great job with your presentation, and you are easy to watch, listen to, and understand. I wish that I could enjoy owning a fabrication shop like you have, and maybe someday, God willing, I will. I think I'll enjoy watching your projects in the future. Liked and subscribed.
27 |
I was hesitant to get this material because I was told that if you didn't have an enclosed and heated print chamber you were hooped. I am encouraged to see it worked for you. I am going to order this for some industrial applications! Thanks for the video!
1 |
Brass inserts installed using a soldering iron work very well. I have been using NylonX for about 2 years now in the drone industry and love the stuff. If your parts are shrinking, you can adjust your slicer program to accommodate.
13 |
You can also increases the number of walls to make things stiffer. I also add ridges to flat parts, similar to what they do with car floor pans, this seems to help the most.
29 |
Oh, my printer is absolutely amazing, spans my whole yard, a motor over here, a frame over there, doesn't make much, but you can always find bits of it everywhere after my last disassembly. Now I have a mill and lathe, I think it's high time I put it back together again with better parts.
6 |
Use brass headset inserts for small threads, I love the ones McMaster carries!
31 |
A thread insert with a collar on the opposite side from the screw can hold really well in most 3D printed materials.
8 |
For increased rigidity, i go for 6 walls and 50-60% infill which appears from my testing to make a significant difference in stiffness. Also, geometry matters, so i would add webs to this design. Another really enjoyable video!!
13 |
Hey appreciate your videos... went back through your settings and a couple things come to mind. 1. For these types of parts (brackets and what not) Probably want to be running 4 perimeters and 5 top and bottom layers at a minimum. Will really help with that flex you were experiencing. Second, a HTN or High Temp CF-Nylon is more what is used for an aluminum replacement. I would try with those parameters though and see if it doesn't remove a lot of the issues you saw.
2 |
I don't ever subscribe, but not only your approach to the engineering and proofing of 3d printing (lots of hearsay and snakeoil advertising out there), not only your keen understanding of the simple truth of TRUE Carbon Fiber, and not only because of your mechanical testing...
But because you are relaxed, explanatory, and minimal background noise, loss of multiple angle cuts, and an overall lack of ADHD prodcution values you see in so many of these videos today.
Thank you man.
1 |
@DavidHerscher
2 years ago
James, MY printer prints perfect every time. The key to perfect prints is to just NOT measure them when they're done. Ignorance, is science...
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