Views : 20,799
Genre: Gaming
Date of upload: Jun 21, 2023 ^^
Rating : 4.98 (6/1,199 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2024-05-11T10:40:33.135575Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
Cvit - Definitely get some PCBs from junk electronics and practice soldering and de-soldiering elements from these boards. This is a wholesale skill that people develop with practice so don't worry about struggling at the start. There are lots of good tutorial videos on YT for how to do this. To check that you soldered a component well just use your multimeter (you don't have to actually power the device on..)
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Not sure if someone else commented on it. But there’s a good chance the lasers not working since there’s a solder blob you’ll need to remove. It’s there for anti static protection in shipping. It bridges a circuit and needs to be removed before the laser will work and read the disc. Could also cause the controller not to work maybe?
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I really enjoyed this video. Im in the same boat, dont know much about repairing consoles, electronics, soldering, multimeter etc. What got me into doing this stuff is, Im a reseller and when I would go buy stuff at yard sales, a lot of times the consoles would end up not working. So I get upset and toss them and just chalk it up as a bad buy. But then I bought 3 SNES systems and the lady swore up and down they all worked. Took them home and not a single one worked and only one actually powered on, the other 2 didnt even turn on at all, No power, nothing. That is when I said enough is enough. I was going to toss them anyway, so instead I decided to take the time to learn about SNES and what I can do to repair them. After a few days all 3 now work perfectly fine. Two needed a new pico fuse and one needed a new power switch. Since then I dove in to learning how to fix PS2, PS3, GameCube, NES and more. This is one part how helpful the internet can be...
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@troyforce1
10 months ago
Those ribbon cables can be a pain, but usually, they're pretty durable when it comes to removing them. There's usually a clamp keeping them in place. If you feel like you have to use that much force to remove it, look closely at the place where it plugs in. I'd recommend not using those pliers, because if they aren't ESD safe, you could easily irreparably damage the board with static. Rather, you should find that a pair of ESD tweezers or a set of 5 inch ESD safe Vampliars should not only be easier to use, but also secure the integrity of the board. About the soldering, you accidentally choose the best. The Hakko is the brand serious technicians use. If you find that you can't remove a component, there's a company called Chip Quick which makes this SMT stuff. It's like solder, but it has a far lower melting point. When mixed into the existing solder, it will melt quicker and it stays melted longer, so you can actually remove the chip before it hardens again. You can then use a roll of copper wire, also very cheap, to attract the melted solder way from the hole. The copper braided wire sops up the solder like a sponge, allowing you to apply new fresh solder after. Next, about those screws. That screwdriver is dog. No getting around it. You'll need a real toolset if you want to remove those screws. They are not very expensive. The saviors from your video, iFixit, makes pretty much the uncontested best sets available without dropping hundreds of dollars. Most of those sets even come with tools like the ESD tweezers and a rubber blackstick made specifically for ribbon cable removal. I'm going to look into that ribbon cable tomorrow. I like to think I'm pretty good at tracking down parts like that. I'll keep you updated if you'd like to reach out personally. This kind of thing makes me invigorated. It's my passion. I find intense joy seeing others feel that same drive and curiosity for tech repair.
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