Views : 982,850
Genre: Education
Date of upload: Mar 27, 2020 ^^
Rating : 4.932 (340/19,520 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2022-04-07T15:30:05.022494Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
Edit) this comment was like years ago and you should know that this is just an opinion. Don't take my comment too seriously and I recommend reading the replied comments below too
To add some of my tips:
1.If you have an edrum that has all mesh heads, tune them(it'll be just adjusting the bolts actually) to the similar rebound that you would get from an acoustic kit.
+Edit) what I think I should have written here was to not tune the mesh heads crazy tight, because acoustic heads tend to have less rebound, but not too loose to make the triggering awful
2. If your edrum has a hihat pad and controller pedal separately (usually seen in lower priced kits) make sure to locate you hat controller right beneath the hihat pad, otherwise it'll feel ackward when you're switching between acoustic and electronic.
Edit) acoustic hats are usually 14"+ and electric ones tend to be much smaller, so you might want to pull the electric hat a little closer to the throne to make it feel a bit more natural
3.Atv(which is an edrum company along with roland) tries to imitate the acoustics, having real-like sounds with big shells on their flagship(roland recently came up with a kit with big shells too) but gives you smaller range to adjust the sounds of the drums. You can't tune them, the ambience is fixed, however roland drums give you a wide range of selection even on cheaper models. However they do not have real-like sounds which atv drums have.(not a huge difference but still) So learning about what each of the manufactures are focusing on is also pretty helpful when choosing what to buy.
4.if you have a laptop, you can buy a drum vst,(superior drummer3 is great) connect your drum module, and have that super realistic sounds from the vst program.
Edit) this might embody latency and dynamic issues, testing with free softwares and sufficient consideration before buying the actual thing is recommended
(My english may be awful, it's not my mother tongue :(
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I bought myself an E drum kit in April of this year at aged 68, something I always wanted to do.Iâve worked all my professional life with live music and with Lockdown it seemed like a good idea to challenge myself. Learning a lot from you guys and loving every minute of it. I still have to be comfortable with all the Module functions, but Iâm getting there.Facinating learning the Rudiments, and realizing the improvement.Why E drums? Simply because of my living circumstances.
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"If you live in an apartment..."
This only applies if you live on the basement or ground levels, with literally no one beneath you. It doesn't matter how quiet your electronic kit is, the pedal hitting the pad and your foot hitting the hi hat pedal both produce low frequency sound waves and thumps that are just as audible to your downstairs neighbors as anything. I've lived on the third floor of an apartment for 2 years, in LA, and it was by far our biggest mistake that we didn't think through. A tennis ball riser can help, but it doesn't completely eliminate the problem.
Also, I'm playing a full mesh set of Rolands w/ upgraded snare, TD-17 brain w/ Mac Mini, Axis-L longboard, KAT HD400 PA system, Yamaha MG10XU Mixer, Gibraltar add-ons to my rack.
Cheers.
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My tip: get a kit with mesh heads. Hitting these hard rubber pads will injure you sooner or later, like slapping your hand to a wall repeatedly. I also find that increasing the trigger sensitivity as much as possible (without getting false triggering) helps me practice dynamics better than if I leave the sensitivities on their default levels, since acoustic kits are much more sensitive than e-kits when playing really soft.
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Here are some tips I wish I knew when I started (e-)drumming!
Drum pads acting up? (Zones triggering poorly or over-enthusiastically) Try unplugging and re-plugging the cable on the pad. (Yes, seriously.)
Pedalling bothering downstairs neighbor? Buy 2â3 scatter-rug pieces (the type with a hard rubber bottom and softer, semi-rigid fuzz coating) the size of your kit's footprint and stack them soft-side-down under the kit. Easy, cheap insulation; no need for tennis-ball / plywood contraptions. Hard rubber absorbs some of the shock, and soft layer helps insulate it from the floor.
Bass drum pad & pedals sliding off position over time? Buy velcro tape and apply to bottom of pad stand, pedals and your rug. I don't recommend using the screws provided with the pad as they might dig through your rug(s) and into your flooring, damage it & act as vibration conduits to your downstairs neighbors' frustration.
Want to add pads but out of cables / module jacks? Use Y-splitter cables (and F/F adapters as necessary) and split the rim zones off tom pads.
- These new pads will likely have poorer dynamics, but work well enough for things like splashes, bells/chimes or even a china.
- Your module needs to support dual-zone tom pads for this; re-assign the rim sounds from the module.
- In my experience on a NON-Roland drum, you don't need special "Drum splitter" cables (ones with a built-in 100 Ohm resistor), unless you're splitting off a cymbal pad.
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Iâve been playing electronic drums on stage since I got a Simmons kit in the early 90s. My number one tip: avoid thinking an electronic kit is a âsubstitutionâ for an acoustic kit. Itâs a different instrument, in the same way than an electric guitar is different form an acoustic guitar. Learn your kit. Learn how it feels, how it responds, in what situations it is best suited for the job, and how to use additional electronics with it (mixers, etc.) to get the best sound, just as a guitar player learns what combination of amps and pedals make the best combination. This instrument is just as valid and useful as an acoustic kit. Itâs just different.
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My tip:
⢠Attach the bass drum to a platform to prevent it from rocking, swaying and (or) moving. Add spikes and (or) Velcro to lock it down. I built a platform with both the drum and pedal attacked, and it made a world of difference.
⢠I switched to lighter sticks. Regal tip Jazz sticks are the same length as 5A, but thin like 7A (nylon)
⢠For some reason, there's a tendency to set up electric kits way to low, I see this in every music store. Your knees are way up in your chest. I ended up raising my kit and thrown several times and still may raise it again.
⢠When MIDI sequencing, I noticed that a few pads were pinning max velocity on most hits. I went through module and using the velocity meter/indicator, pulled back the sensitivity of every pad so that only a very very hard hit would max the velocity. This seemed most common on the bass and crash cymbals
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For those who started out on electronic drums and are now exploring acoustic drums: Learn to develop a lighter touch when playing electronic drums. Even when playing heavier stuff, you don't have to lay in so hard into those pads. That way, you develop a better touch and tone on the acoustic drums.
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First Tip: Make an effort to set up your drum/cymbal pads as you do your acoustic drums and cymbals. The small size of the pads tends to make everyone set their pads up too close.
Second Tip: play your e-pads knowing that the stick response is noticeably different in comparison to an acoustic drum. So find a balance between practice time on e-drums and acoustic drums to keep your "acoustic touch."
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Great video đ Iâve been playing electronic drums for a few years and itâs good to see you guys starting to recognize electronic drums more and cover them in such depth. I agree that acoustic and electronic drums are completely different instruments, but they do compliment each other. Some tips:
1. Bass drum beater - itâs true that felt beaters will eventually damage and wear through the mesh head. Some felt beaters you can simply spin around and use the reverse plastic side, or just buy a plastic beater. Alternatively, if you like the feel of felt you can just use a patch on the mesh head like those made by Evans to protect it. Either way is fine.
2. Mesh heads feel better than rubber and have less rebound. You can adjust the tension of a mesh head slightly, but not too much as this will affect the triggering of the sounds and shorten the nice of the trigger cone under the head.
3. The stock sounds and kits in the module are just that - stock sounds (templates). You need to dive and edit the sound and trigger settings to your liking. The top tier modules have huge editing capability where you can adjust things like head tuning, head type, shell size, shell depth, shell type, muffling, beater type, reverb (different room types, room size), mic positions, compression, effects - you name it.
4. If you donât like the synth type sounds on the module, you can trigger virtual drum software (VST) via a laptop that contains actual professionals recordings of REAL acoustic drum sounds - Superior Drummer 3, Addictive Drums 2, Steven Slate Drums 5, EZ Drummer 2 to name a few.
5. You donât have to buy electronic drums âoff the shelfâ. You can buy a cheap or second hand acoustic kit and convert it to electronic by installing internal or external triggers on the drums. However, you will still need either rubber e-cymbals or low volume cymbals (triggered) and a drum module to trigger the sounds. This gives you an acoustic sized electronic kit. There are also off the shelf acoustic sized kits from companies like Roland, ATV and Drum-tec etc.
Hope that helps.
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Interesting. Both for me. I play my 1986 13-piece acoustic Ludwig at band practice; at home, I play the electronic Alesis Nitro Mesh kit to learn songs, arrangements, & techniques. I like it, 'cause I hook an MP3 player into the module, & I have tracks with only the bass & guitar playing our originals, where I can play to them, learn arrangements. And I can practice on a whim -- a few minutes here, a few minutes there -- getting much accomplished. (plus it's physical therapy for my motor neuron disability).
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@DrumeoOfficial
4 years ago
Do you have an electronic kit? Comment with your set-up âŹď¸
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