Views : 615,200
Genre: Autos & Vehicles
Date of upload: Nov 30, 2023 ^^
Rating : 4.905 (493/20,333 LTDR)
RYD date created : 2024-05-09T17:36:49.475147Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
I had a similar issue with my 2007 chevy silverado (it was also stuck in 3rd gear). I brought the truck to several places and ask them to replace the solenoids. Every single place I went to (7) said no. Most transmission shops don't want to touch a vehicle unless there is $2,500 or more involved! I even told a couple of places I would sign a waiver and they still said no.
I didn't want to do it myself because I don't have a lift and hate working on my back but I sucked it up and did it. This was 18 months ago and haven't had an issue since. Note: You technically just have to change 1 solenoid but change all 4 UNLESS you are flipping the vehicle. If that's the case then just replace the bad solenoid with a refurb or cheap knock-off.
My final bill for 4 solenoids, filter, gasket, and tranny fluid was $290.00.
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The trans has a CIRCUIT fault. Basicly, the transmission computer found an open circuit for the shift solenoid and that could be anywhere in that circuit (including the wiring, connectors or the solenoid itself). Since it may not always be the solenoid, I would look into troubleshooting this a little further. If the transmission computer is inside the trans, there may be a conductor plate (which is a rigid wiring harness for all the electrical components within). Good Luck, Sam!
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This is Scott from California. You can inspect and test each solenoid valve with an ommeter. You can apply 12 V to them and see if they operate. The transmission control module can be tested also by checking all the positive battery feeds and the negative feeds to the module. Don't buy stuff that you don't need! I know you know! I'm just trying to help. Don't pull the trigger on a parts cannon!
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Iāve been through this repair on many ZF transmissions. The āremanā solenoids are just used units with new o-rings. Iāve tried them in a 6hp19 and they sucked, sent back and used brand new ZF solenoids and shifted smooth. Worth buying the real zf set, they arenāt that expensive. Also worth buying a Zip Kit and separator plate so you can replace the accumulator pistons and upgrade to springs instead of the rubber nub that flattens out in a few years. It will shift significantly nicer with the gear accumulator springs replaced. Every 100k+ ZF6HP or 150k+ ZF8HP that hasnāt been serviced will need this stuff replaced. Use lifeguard fluid or liquid moly fluid only in these trans. They are very picky. Good luck!
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The problem with the cheap ones is that if it doesn't work after replacing them you always wonder if it is the transmission that is bad or if the refurbished solenoids are just crap and didn't work correctly to begin with...
Edit: And if you decide to buy a "new" transmission after that you might've wasted all that money because the old transmission was OK.
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I had a very similar thing happen to mineā¦ after 188K ārelativelyā trouble free miles - it started to slam gears then would not go into 3rd (but would manually jump to 4th). I was going to do a whole valve assembly swap ($1,200-$1,700 for the whole bottom tray) then learned that bunches of re-programming would be involved (dealer only). Let it sit for 6 months, now the passenger door wonāt open, and after replacing the battery - it will not start, I donāt even hear the solenoid click. So I bought a 4Runner š. Still love my RR!
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I had the valve body repaired on my 05 LR3 with the 4.4. Great engine, my symptom was clunking between gear shift. Tried the fluid/filter swap but a no go. After the valve body job itās been solid for 50k so far. Other than coil and plugs, and several other minor mechanical issues you can expect with a 200k plus SUV itās been a solid ride. Canāt wait to see you handle the job!
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5 months ago
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