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Myth Busted: 600 Grit Sanding Isnโ€™t Always Necessary
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9,189 Views โ€ข Feb 7, 2025 โ€ข Click to toggle off description
Do You Really Need 600 Grit? Not Always!
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Views : 9,189
Genre: Howto & Style
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Uploaded At Feb 7, 2025 ^^


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RYD date created : 2025-02-13T14:54:05.647134Z
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15 Comments

Top Comments of this video!! :3

@ScarletKnightAGK

2 weeks ago

In grade school we had a woodshop elective that was taught by an old timer that just didn't want to be there. After our project pieces were cut out this guy would just have us sand by hand for the next 6 weeks of class constantly telling us upon asking "Is it smooth enough?" "Nope."

To him it meant nothing but I'm 50 now and I still am never convinced I've sanded something smooth enough for finish. Thanks Mr. Graves. You should have retired a decade earlier.

10 |

@psychoskwurl

1 week ago

I can see this being true. I saw a video where they explained that sanding wood past 220 makes it burnish and fill in the pours with sawdust which makes you stains and such not penetrate. They showed examples.

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@beardedbdub426

2 weeks ago

The natural texture and feel of wood is also nicer at that 220 mark too

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@michaelfairchild

2 weeks ago

220 should be the maximum. Even Rubio tells people to sand to 120 for their oil finish.

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@bonesrhodes3762

6 days ago

I always finish down to 1,000,000. The last 10 grits I hold the sander precisely 1/64 " above the surface so only air movement actually touches the finish.

actually, I use 6 grits: 100 - 120 - 150 - 180 - 220 - 320 - Keep very little 100 and less than very little 320 - buy the other 4 grits by the hundred packs

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@makenchips

1 week ago

Hey if you go to 800 and 1,000 you don't even need to finish it try it on hardwood handles you'll see! He also didn't note the types of woods between art and soft but the points you make are very clear.

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@madsighntist14

2 weeks ago

in "some" of my wood work, I have sanded all the way to 2000 grit, I will add, that I was working with Spaulted Maple, and I had filled the pores with an extremely thin viscosity CA, to hold the piece TOGETHER, they were off cuttings, that ended up Nigh On about 0.040-0.050 Thousands thick, dimension 1~inch ร— 7~ inches, for Bible Bookmarkers; held up to a light, one was able to SEE through these Plastic with Wood items of Art.

With GOOD EYES, the pores versus solid woods were like a stained glass window, variating colors of NATURE, retained by Science ! ! !

I add this in here not as a "Myth Buster", for I have many Tens of Thousands of Square Feet in finishing Hardwood Floors, One Winery "tasting room" alone, was 7,000 Square feet, & sanding, as you stated ended at 220 grit.

That floor, along with approximently 40% of all Floors we finished was done using a "Basic Coatings" Water Borne Poly Eurathane finish: Basic Coatings DEVELOPED the concept of Water Borne Poly Eurathane; their Main customer base was Pro Basket Ball Companies, as the VOC'S Were non-existant!

The Company Salesman who TAUGHT our company in proper use, had Just arrived from finishing the LA LAKERS Collesium [sp] and they played on his morning job, That Night!

STREET SHOE was the product name, I am writing here without my first cuppa coffee ( ! ! ! ).

Street Shoe "could be" used in two manners: with OR without catalist, depending upon user application needing Speedy recoat Time, or come back the next day . . . Uhh, if I recall correctly, the First coat to Bare Wood was ALWAYS w/o catalist, as the product needed to seep into the floors top layer of wood, versus just "laying on top" of the wood.

A very remarkable product.

When I went out on my "own", having left the area to move North, I continued flooring, my last Gallon of Street Shoe cost $100 a Gallon, and I did not buy their Catslist, one that was in the product, there was a *time line* until it was no longer good to use, @ that price I did Five House (one was actually a museum) and ALL customers were estatic at a Product non wood workers new about!

I even finished the Desk of the Librarian in Florence, Oregon, to make it harder than a typical ~soft~ Hard Wood top!

Yours,

philip, from the Great Pacific NorthWET, Oregon Division, USA

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@synngames5446

1 week ago

Messing around on a board I didn't plan to keep I sanded it to 10,000 grit lmao was smooth as glass was beautiful looking. Not practical but I was curious

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@davidnauman

2 weeks ago

I usually finish with 180 on a block to get out any swirls from the da. I do this on mahogany boat restorations

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@pfarinella

2 weeks ago

I go up to 240 grit finishing with oil and wax and yet it is silky smooth

1 |

@YouHaveToTryFirst

1 week ago

Gonna upset all the "Have to sand to 10,000 or your project is trash" bros.
For me 320ish is the highest I've ever gone for a wood project. Epoxy I can go higher but for wood ๐Ÿคท. Have yet to have any one complaining that it isn't silky smooth enough

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@678friedbed

2 weeks ago

i sand to 1000, works great.

1 |

@cincin795

1 week ago

Blah blah blah

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