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59,742 Views ā¢ Feb 29, 2024 ā¢ Click to toggle off description
Views : 59,742
Genre: Education
License: Standard YouTube License
Uploaded At Feb 29, 2024 ^^
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Rating : 4.944 (13/920 LTDR)
98.61% of the users lieked the video!!
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User score: 97.92- Overwhelmingly Positive
RYD date created : 2024-06-02T14:36:47.632269Z
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61 Comments
Top Comments of this video!! :3
Wouldnāt the continuous cavity be preferable to prevent thermal bridging?
18 |
So what your saying is you've taken the easy option? Even cutting in a vertical dpc is rough. you need to continue the cavity, at the very least you need a vertical 'insulated' dpc to stop thermal bridging. What that flappy piece of dpc is doing is a mystery to me? Surley water could track on the existing wall side of this?
4 |
Ah.... I miss James
15 |
Vertical damp up the wall as shown, then expansion joint with mastic. Done. Opening up 100 mm cavity all the way up the building is insane.
Even this 25mm cut with isulated damp is total bollocks. Just absolutely no need , actually compromise the structure of the building for no gain its madness
4 |
You should get this bloke on more often he is goodā¦. š
4 |
Would happily give a job to James. Honestly top bloke
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Never been asked for any odf the 3 options. Mastic the butt joint stops any damp transfer
2 |
I would cut a vertical groove around 50mm deep with the stilly, level with the back face of the outer leaf and silicone a strip of dpc into it. No way any moisture was getting through. š
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Itās a load of crap , thereās never been any real issues with damp , there will some Pratt from university making this shite up and no experience of the building game .
4 |
You will the joint with mastic and that will keep it dry
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You need to get James back in more.
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There was previously no damp, because conservatory wasnāt as sealed and warm as a regular room. That should not serve as evidence that a cut cavity is not required. If a cavity is not formed, a thermal bridge is introduced, which would result in parts of inner wall being of low temperature. That then leads to condensation, as the warm internal air carries more moisture than cold and when that air meets the cold surface it loses the ability to hold the vapour, which condenses into droplets of water. Therefore damp is introduced from within the building and not necessarily through a leak from the outside. The end result is that you get the black mold growth in those spots.
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Iv never put a dpc behind the wall starter. Why?
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Continue the cavity to be sure
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You should remove the render and cut a vertical dpc in and mastic it putting it behind the wall starter does nothing at all it's not a stop and you never fix to render if it cracks and fails so does your fixing
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Open cavity every time, especially if the existing building is of a old porous brick.... why risk brigding water for the sake of a 2 minute job.
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Must be a new thing. Thatās never been the way itās done the cavity is always opened up to prevent thermal bridging. Only weakens the integrity of the building if not done skillfully and neatly. This is a cop out way as 10 times easier. Also how to you fix both side of the damp nicely. As one side of DPC will be in the cavity flapping about surely?
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Cutting into and opening up the whole house cavity wall area, and opening it all up to possible vermin investation?
Had one house owner in Liverpool who ended up paying out over Ā£9,000.00; in Rentokil anti-vermin cost's, due to the builder opening up the wall, during a full wrap around new extension.
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Oddly enough ours was cut out today, old 2" cavity and 150mm cavity to be attached
1 |
@markosborne5510
8 months ago
James was always very good at explaining his work.A loss to the building industryā¦ unless heās back!
20 |