An exciting breakthrough in wave research took place at Kelly Slater Wave Co Surf Ranch, with Scripps Oceanography researchers at the helm. Physical oceanographer Falk Feddersen led a study with scientists from Kelly Slater Wave Co and Naval Postgraduate School using a new instrument to make in situ measurements inside waves, providing us with incredible new knowledge about wave dynamics and their impact.

The study published in Coastal Engineering Journal introduces the wavedrifter, a small floating instrument that is able to unveil the secrets hidden within waves and their behavior when they break, shedding light on the intense accelerations that occur when waves overturn.

The implementation of the wavedrifter in coastal environments can also help contribute to better coastal planning, improved beach management, and a deeper appreciation for the forces shaping our shores.

“This research and developing instruments that help us better understand coastal processes is crucial to protecting and preserving our beaches,” Feddersen said. “Before, turbulence by waves breaking would be measured by proxy, whereas now we can measure it directly.”

The research and development of the wavedrifter was made possible thanks to the Mark (‘Marko’) Walk Wolfinger Surfzone Processes Research Fund.