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26,567 Views • Aug 1, 2024 • Click to toggle off description
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RYD date created : 2024-10-01T06:46:56.626988Z
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97 Comments
Top Comments of this video!! :3
Back in the 1970s my dad got tired of paying large propane bill for our large family. 7 children plus mom and dad,9 of us. Dad got a large propane water heater tank and had an extension tack welded to bottom of the tank,about 8" tall,the circumference of the tank,with a small door ,and no bottom. He cemented enough fire brick to basement concrete floor to set tank on,and then plumbed the tank into hot water plumbing circuit. Using small pieces of wood that we cut especially to fit the small fire box,it heated our water for almost 2 decades for free. All 9 of us could shower one after the other with hot water to spare.
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3 thoughts. 1, the fact that chimney is truly vertical allows the heat to exit fast. 2, the coil comment probably meant more coils in total increasing the area covered and 3, an insulating jacket would reduce leaching of the heat into the atmosphere.
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I belive the commenter meant to add coils to increase the total heat exchange surface area.
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The closer you get to the heat source, the faster the heat transfer. This alone is great, but if you want to be extra, here are a couple of ideas:
Insulate with Kaowool or Refractory Cement: This helps retain heat where it’s needed. Just be careful with cements—they must be COMPLETELY dry before using the stove.
Braise the Pipe: Use a propane or garden weed torch to braise the pipe to the stack. Silver solder has a high melting point (around 700°C or 1292°F), so the stove won’t remelt it. This method improves thermal transfer significantly.
Math:
Weed Torch: Reaches temperatures between 1300°C and 1600°C (2372°F to 2912°F).
Rocket Stove: Can reach temperatures of 1000°C (1832°F) or higher, but this heat is distributed broadly.
Tip: Do not heat up the stove when soldering; you won’t be able to control the temperature precisely. Use the torch directly for focused heating. Also, wait a few days for the cement to dry thoroughly. Water inside concrete can turn to steam and cause cracking, which won’t make it explode but will reduce performance.
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I think what you are doing is fantastic and more of us should be working on things like this 👍. Great job !!!
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If you want to improve efficiency you just need to make the tube longer and put isolation on the tubing. Also, using some kind of fuel and forced induction would increase the heat, making the difference in temperature greater and thus also the speed at which heat transfer occurs.
Also, contact area. maybe you can make like an outer cylinder filled with sand in which the tubing sits. This increases the surface area that is getting heated and further increases the efficiency.
If that is to difficult, just place a towel around the main coil and it should show a difference.
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Dam bro literally on your next video it had what I just described!! Awesome!!
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If you actually want to make it work much faster, make the coil smaller and fit it inside the stove with the copper lines coming out of the top of the stove for access. Or something like that.
That would probably be at least twice as fast, maybe more.
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Stretch the coil to run the entire height, then solder it to the pipe. You're lacking contact. You could also try dimpling the steel to increase turbulence in the flow near the steel. You might also be tempted to add some coils above the exhaust to directly capture heat from the exhaust. Lots to try.
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Love the stove bro
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On the bottom the copper is touching more of the hot stove surface where the fire is burning, by raising it up a small amount more of the wind blowing will cause a slightly less temperature ,you could install a 3 sided rectangular box welded to the pipe and the open side set for the copper ends to come out and the flat bottom the copper will be sitting on will generate and save and transfer more heat and keep it concentrated to where the wind doesn’t affect the temp to the negative and have more surface contact heat generated, and the rectangular box will stop wind from cooling it slightly raising over all temp, just an idea!!
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Super cool. I'm planning to do something similar. However I plan on adding a carbonizing chamber above the rocket stove with another coil around the gap between the rocket stove exhaust and the gas outlet of the carbonizer. I'll also test a coil in/on the carbonizer exhaust. My concern is that I might cause a vapor lock in the coils if they cause the water to boil.
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You could even have a four sided box welded to pipe and drill a slot for the two copper ends to come out of, and I say slot and not holes because it would allow the copper to be removed more easily, unless the side where the pipe comes out was a sliding plate split into sections around both ends of the copper pipe coming out in the middle, cut the plate in middle of the circular holes to release the pipe, love this stuff
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Wrap the copper in tin. Then use hose clamps to squeeze it all tight. Hold the copper tube tightly against the stove. Also hold on the heated air for more area of the tube exposed to hotter air. Win win. More heated transfer. Hotter water faster. The current setup has very inefficient heat transfer from the stove to the copper.
Try it and let me know.
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A larger coil from top to bottom would heat faster then a short coil!
Faster getting hot and more useearlier.
Tip: you almost can build a steam engine this way to power a generator for a cabin and have hot water too.😮❤❤
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Most of heat is going straight up & out the pipe if you fabricate a metal fan blade weld it in at bottom of pipe above air & fuel intake heat will transfer from blades to pipe & create a vortex as well
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If you was to wrap the flue with a copper sheet (tight fit) then solder the copper coil to the sheet that would increase your surface area for conduction, then wrap the copper coil with heat proof wool and wrap in tin foil to hold the wool in place you will find the heat recovery rate will be far greater than it currently is 👍
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Bend the top part by 30 ° to 45° angle , and wrap the copper from unbended part to the end of the bended part.
I know it will work.
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Wrapped the tube around a smaller pipe so that it will fit inside this pipe. Then run the exit up to the center and out. It will hang from the top. / I’m curious to see if it would work.
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@alcoholdonkey
2 months ago
I think they were thinking having the copper higher would put it in a hotter zone, because heat rises. But that doesn't work here because of the shape of the stove. If you put a 45° chimney on it, the escaping heat would absorb into the upper body more reducing heat loss. Simple test would be to check top vs bottom with a heat gun.
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