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43,650 Views ā¢ Aug 26, 2023 ā¢ Click to toggle off description
Views : 43,650
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Uploaded At Aug 26, 2023 ^^
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RYD date created : 2024-06-17T21:32:56.463413Z
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YouTube Comments - 72 Comments
Top Comments of this video!! :3
No no no no. I feel like we may need a repeat of what happened to the compressor route
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A lot of talk about a glued on hold but not a word about putting bolts where trad gear could be used. Looks like that flake takes gear all day
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I've been climbing regularly since 1975, and this is outrageous on at least two levels: 1.) gluing artificial holds to a natural rock face--at all. Even if it were unclimbable (which it's obviously not), that would just mean that it goes unclimbed. Unbelievable. And 2.) there is not only a crack immediately to the left that makes this section doable, that crack is also perfect for protection (either nuts or cams) making the bolts completely unnecessary. This kind of stuff drives me nuts. If you don't have the skill to do a section like this, then don't bring it down to your level by bolting/gluing it into submission. Pathetic. I'm not blaming the climber, as their technique reveals that they are fairly new to this. I blame whoever "put this route up," for lack of a better way of saying it.
14 |
Call me a purist- but Iāve been Climbing since 2004, including arborist work, cell towers, route setting, multi pitch trad, sport, etcā¦. this kinda ruins the aesthetic for me. I donāt mind bolts on a trad route- clip if you want, plug gear if you choose, but go ahead and via feratta the dang thing before this. I just feel like thereās a certain beauty in trusting your gear and partner- this takes all the success away from the route. Iām not a bolt chopper, but I would likely chip these off.
22 |
I like it way better than chipping
What is the grade using the plastic? Vs without? I would love to hear the opinion of the first ascensionist of his thought process. Would one A0 bolt ladder move (or a fixed pin A0 in the crack) at the top of the pitch be worse? Or better?
2 |
Ich sehe zwei Seiten:
1. Dass man Fels nicht manipuliert, ist sinnvoll. So waren viele, letztendlich kreative Lƶsungen, notwendig, um Passagen klettern zu kƶnnen. Und die KreativitƤt der Bewegungen ist ja das Entscheidende beim Klettern.
2. Auf der anderen Seite wƤre die "Seenot" ohne die Kunstgriffe fĆ¼r viele Kletterer nicht mƶglich. Und sie ist fĆ¼r viele Leute ein ganz tolles, einmaliges Erlebnis.
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A few feet to the left
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Not every climb is for everyone. Lots and lots of climbs above my pay grade. It also used to be very common to mostly free climbing routes with a few small sections of aid climbing for the mere mortal. Say a very long alpine route that can be done at a moderately accessible grade with 30 ft / 10 m of aid climbing on hooks or small wires somewhere to get past a very hard section. Nobody knows how to do a bit of light aid climbing anymore. All you might need is to stand in slings for a couple minutes and be past the difficult section. As long as weāre honest about the style of our climbs and what we did then it doesnāt matter. It makes me sad to see this.
Also, not homie doing a little āfrench freeā and pulling on the gear right in front of the camera! š Heās on belay from above too, insult to injury
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Yeah I hate this
5 |
I think it's Seenot in Austria. The climb would be impossible without the plastic holds and they make the route managable for ~6b multi pitch plaisir climbing. It's an amazing route. The problematic part is that recently the fairly easy bottom part has seen some manipulation with the rock. Bolts stickkng out etc.
That's a very bad idea since it makes the bottom way too easy and weaker climbers might get stuck in the 7th pitch or so..
4 |
Mother nature provide a beautiful natural Line.
As usual, sport climbers have to bring it down to Thier level. I bet those who did it carry on about protecting the environment too.
Sad , very sad.
So many of Today's Climbers are so hypocritical!
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Welche Route ist das? Kann mir da jemand helfen?
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Kinda whack but I can see the logic if the rest of the pitches go way easier than this one section in particular. Like who wants a 5.12 crux on an otherwise 5.7 multipitch.
Or idk there are other explanations too, like what if a key hold chipped off and they wanted to honor the original vision for the climb. Would that be ok? I personally feel that the classic climbs should be protected to some degree and adding on holds seems a lot less disruptive than chiseling a hold out.
Tbh it looks like a beautiful climb and a singular blue hold wouldnāt have ruined it for me. If anything, Iād come across it, have a laugh with my partner, and finish out a memorable day.
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That's hard. As an old guy I say yes. As I young man I say f no.
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ParabƩns meu filho, te amo!!
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Seenot, Wolfgangsee?
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Dont need to use it but looks its not even necessary...š
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Chi le messa o voleva creare discussioni.. o uniformare la via.. oppure non ĆØ capace di scalare.... a sx c'ĆØ una fessura che non pare complicata da scalare!
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No sense š¢
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@Nb_edu
11 months ago
I lack context, but if this is a natural rock wall then bolting a plastic hold in it is heresy
70 |