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RYD date created : 2024-05-01T02:33:35.802803Z
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Top Comments of this video!! :3
You can also use Stabilizer as a fuel conditioner,
not just for storage. 2.5 oz for 5 gallons for storage, 1.25 oz as a conditioner. It helps mix up the ethanol molecules into the fuel molecules
for a better burn n helps control the moisture since ethanol (alcohols) is hygroscopic. Also, when fuels with ethanol evaporates it leaves a sugary residue, since ethanol comes from CORN!
Like high fructose CORN syrup! Just what you want in your fuel system. π³
It is especially important to treat fuel injection systems since they are prone to getting clogged up if the vehicles sit for long periods of time, 2 months or more... I use Stabilizer all the time in my motors..
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yep engine internals can start rusting within a month of sitting depending on humidity levels and temp swings.
I bought a "new" overstock 18 hp Briggs from a company on ebay that had been warehoused for two years and decided to bore scope the cylinders before use to just check that walls were not scratched, etc. The valve tops were rusted and there was some rust on valve seats. I then checked inside the crankcase and the oil pickup tube had a large patch of rust. So I sent it back. They shouldn't be selling old unused engines that have not been stored properly as new.
So fogging is a great idea at the end of season.
To reduce chances of gas going bad, either drain the tank and run engine until the carb is empty and engine stops OR top off the tank with fresh gas so there's little air volume at the top of the tank, preferably with non ethanol fuel. This reduces the amount of surface area of the fuel that can absorb moisture as well as the amount of moist air that can get in the tank for the fuel to absorb water to begin with. A storage location with reduced temp swings helps even more,, as in not outside directly exposed to ambient temps. I've had great success with this practice over winter storage.
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Heres another tip for you, also if you have something like a boat or anything that you are storing for the season, fill the fuel tank completely full because the fuel tank also sweats. This is how you can get water in the fuel system. The empty part of the tank sweats and that water will cost you a lot of money when you try to run your equipment the next spring.
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Big block builder and intake specailties we store all of our rebuild engines with. Chain saw bar lube. Then we keep them in a heat controlled room. Havent had any issues yet the longest one here big Block Ford was a 490. Now a 580. Been sitting 2yrs re packaged 3 months ago. With no issues. Love you Faye love all your info you rock.
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Well I've been restoring and building cars for decades....I do agree with a whole bunch of your advice and recommendations..Sta Bil...sucks!.. I've been using Star Tron additives in all my engines for about 6 years..Keeps engines, including small two stroke engines form damage from the Ethanol used in modern refined fuels...Keeps posting love your enthusiasm and skill level!π
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@casey9169
1 year ago
If you're having trouble finding a block, sleeve it. Can't get rid of deep rust pitting but you can certainly bore out the old cylinders and replace with new press in sleeves. Contact Darton, they can get you taken care of. Some ductile iron t-sleeves will be much stronger than the factory cylinders anyway. Saved many blocks putting sleeves in.
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